Wednesday 15 July 2009

From peat to peat


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During Spring my Father and I went on a trip to Scotland to tour the whisky distilleries of the West coast, what’s known as the Islay malts (plus Talisker). These whiskies are defined by their heavy particle per million rate (ppm) of peat – giving them a smoky flavour. But this does not mean each is a bruiser – the ppm rate in this region varies from 10 at the low end to a throat killing 70ppm at the top. But how is this peaty magnificence achieved? Read on dear friend, read on….

So the trip started with a brutally early journey to Stanstead. We had paid more to avoid the early flight, but good old budget airline changed the time to vicious-o-clock. Arriving in Glasgow Prestwick, we were met by a superbly friendly gnome like chap from the local car rental place who took us to our awaiting chariot. A beautiful Fiesta was powered up by Senor Pond; he was the designated driver. First pit stop – petrol station – how different to London: locally cooked sausage roll as an eating delight. We then powered on to Lock Lomond for a beautiful break and a cup of coffee (the place was a severe tourist trap with lunch time steaks coming in at £20 for a rump – entry level price).

The journey took us on a wonderful trip through the Highlands until we reached Tarbert, a tiny little fishing town that was once a centre of wealth. The first night’s stop was pleasant and we were fed with an exceptional, and exceptionally large, Scottish breakfast. Ferry time and to Islay we went. Laphroig, Kilchoman and Bruichladdie distilleries visited and strong opinions on all, but too much content for one mere blog post. Onwards and upwards: Isle of Skye and Talisker – the old man’s favourite before we went, but now perhaps converted to Laphroig. Try the quarter cask 12 year which is currently available from Sainsburys at just under £30. Nice.

We took a long walk around Skye, which cleared away hangovers and cleared the lungs. Two thirds around, Mr Pond sank in a giant bog of peat and I had to use all of my might to pull him out. And so peat to peat.

So why the peaty flavour? Well, the barley is soaked in water to start the fermentation process and then it is dried on an open floor over the smoke of burning peat. Controlling the amount of peat used in this process delivers the ppm and the flavour you are looking for. You may be a Speyside advocate but I say no!

Part 2 of this post is for those with an interest in whisky and shall explore the distilleries we visited in more detail.



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